Woolen Knitting Yarn – Why Use Woolen Yarns?
Technically speaking, both the Woolen Spun and the Worsted Spun knitting yarns can only be made from animal fibers (hair or fur) such as that from the sheep, camel or other similar creatures. This world however, does not always stick to tradition so these days, you can find many yarns of many different make ups that are called woolen yarns. These Woolen Knitting Yarns are not restricted to animal fibers but also can include acrylic and vegetable fibers as well. No matter what type of fiber the knitting yarn may use, the woolen yarn does retain some properties that make it excellent for what it contributes to the world of knitting.
One of the primary factors in the production of woolen yarn no matter what type of fiber is being used, is the preparation process of the fibers. All woolen fibers are carded rather than combed when the fiber is being brushed out. A “card” in this case closely resembles a curry comb. It is generally backed by rubber or some other soft and pliable surface and has numerous metal pins coming through at regular and dense intervals.
This card is then used to brush down the fibers. However, unlike the worsted process, the carding often leaves many short fibers facing in many directions and does not bind the braiding of the yarn nearly as tight as that of worsted knitting yarn. This results in the creation of a yarn that is much less tightly wound and thus has more space in between the individual fibers. In addition to that, the fibers that are there are often still facing in many different directions resulting in a yarn that is much more pliable and “bouncy” or “airy”.
The woolen yarn does seem to work exceptionally well for those soft, warm knitted winter caps and hats. It also does very well for knitting mittens and other even the large, warm and cushy sweaters that you wear on the outside of your many layers of clothing when going out in extremely cold weather. The elasticity of the woolen yarn actually ideally suits it to many different knitting uses that would otherwise be overly difficult and have to be far more exact than they do using the more flexible yarns.
Another great benefit to the woolen yarn when using the natural animal fibers is the ability to create yarn that still possesses some of the features of the original fur or pelt. Many of the natural furs and fibers have oils that help to stave off adverse weather for the animals. The entire preparation and production process for the all-natural woolen knitting yarns allows some of them to retain the natural oils and wax that offer that added bit of protection for your knitted garments. Not only do you get the great comfort of a hand-knitted garment but you also have natural resistance to many of the elements that humans generally tend to stay out of if they can.
These days, it is very common to see woolen yarns made out of all sorts of fibers both natural and synthetic. Bear in mind though, that the basic principles of the yarn itself will vary only slightly and the yarn itself should serve your purposes very well. We all know what the instructions say to use but if you are like most people, you may want to experiment some too. Whether you are experimenting with different ideas or following the instructions to the letter, it always helps to have a better idea of what you are working with and why it works like it does.
Liz Raad is the author of the exciting new E-book “Knitting For Profit – Your Step-by-Step Guide To Making Money From Knitting and Crochet”. Liz also runs a popular blog on the topic of making money from knitting and crochet. Visit her Knitting For Profit blog where you will find tonnes of free information and practical advice about how to successfully knit or crochet for profit.
On her blog you will discover: How to get started in your own knitting business, how to easily sell your knitting and crochet online, copyright free knitting patterns that you are free to knit for your own profit, real success stories and interviews with women who make cash from their favorite hobby, how much to charge for a knitting job, reviews on Knitting Yarns
Author: Liz Raad
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Muskox Yarn – The Cashmere Of The North
Qiviut (pronounced kiv-ee-ut) is the extremely fine underwool of muskox and is one of the finest and warmest fibers on earth. Qiviut is not easy to get hold of but muskox yarn is prized by many experienced knitters and spinners who appreciate its unique fiber properties such as fineness, warmth, softness and non-shrinkage.
Muskoxen are native to Arctic regions in Alaska, Canada and Greenland. During the 1850s they were hunted to extinction in Alaska, however a small herd from Greenland was re-introduced and they are now flourishing. Each year, this remarkably tough animal grows a dense layer of Qiviut over its entire body, protected from wind and precipitation by an outer coat of dark brown guard hair. The fine, dense underwool helps insultate the muskox from tempratures that can go as low as -50F. Each Spring, the muskox naturally sheds it coat so, unlike sheep, no shearing is necesaary to remove the fiber. Because shedding is fairly synchronous, large fleecy sheets of Qiviut can be combed from the shoulder and flank areas of animals.
Qiviut is a speciality yarn and isn’t widely available, however, if you make the effort you can get hold of Qiviut yarn from small specialist farms and suppliers in both Alaska and Canada. One such small family-run business is Windy Valley Muskox Yarn. The farm is located in the Matanuska River Valley of Alaska and the family specialize is producing Qiviut and other speciality yarns such as Suri Alpaca and Pima Cotton in a stunning array of natural and unique dyed colors.
Characteristics of Muskox Yarn
What makes muskox yarn so special? Well, it blooms beautifully, swelling and becoming softer and warmer the more it is handled. Both the Lace weights and the Fingering weights can be considered lace weights by most standards. The Sport weights can be considered fingering weights by most standards. Because muskox yarn blooms so well these fine weights can be worked on needles much larger than standard lace weight fibers. Also Qiviut yarn is incredibly soft it is non-irritating. However, before you consider using Qiviut yarn for your next project you should be aware that 100% Qiviut yarn tends to sag and it doesn’t retain its shape that way that wool does. The good news is that many producers of muskox yarn, such as Windy Valley Muskox Yarn, produce Qiviut/wool blends; so you get the softness of Qiviut with the elasticity of wool. Knitted items like scarves and shawls are ideal for 100% muskox yarn. Qiviut does not shrink; in fact Qiviut tends to stretch by up to 10% when washed.
Garments made from muskox yarn is nothing new. Russian, American and European women brought their knitting skills with them to the far north and soon starting using yarn made from muskox underwool. The indigenous women of the far north, like the Inuvialuit, learned knitting skills from the new-comers, and today are some of the most accomplished knitters when it comes to making beautiful, handcrafted, hand-dyed garments made from muskox yarn.
If you’re looking for a new type of yarn for your next knitting project maybe you could try using muskox yarn. Thanks to family run concerns like Windy Valley Muskox Yarn, Qiviut can be purchased throughout the United States and beyond. Once you feel the fineness and softness of muskox yarn, and what a pleasure it is to work with, you’ll be finding more excuses to use it for your future projects.
Visit exquisiteyarns.com to learn more about Windy Valley Muskox Yarn and other hand-dyed yarns like Rio de la Plata yarn.
Author: Robin Cassidy
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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My First Sock Using Twisted Sisters Yarn
I’ve been knitting for some years now but have never, in all that time, used hand dyed yarn. Well, I finally decided to broaden my yarn experience and have completed my first project using a hand dyed fiber from Twisted Sisters Yarn.
Twisted Sisters Yarn has been around for more than ten years. I’d heard about them and even came across their hand dyed fibers at craft fairs and yarn stores but I’d never thought about using their yarns. However, all that changed when I got my hands on the Twisted Sisters Sock Cookbook by Anne Vogel. The book was lent to me by my sister – who’s been knitting with hand dyed yarns for years – and right away I was captivated by it, so much so, that I went out and bought my own copy.
Reading the sock cookbook was a revelation to me. First off, I liked the way tone of it; they don’t lecture you – instead you learn about the enthusiasm and love the author has for hand dyed yarn. Page by page, you learn about dip-dyeing, pour-dyeing, and hand-painting yarns. The photographs and text show you just how easy hand dyeing can be. But the book goes even further. It shows explains to you about the different ways of spinning yarn and how this affects the look, feel and color of a yarn. The Sock Cookbook should be on the book shelf of every knitter.
Anyhow, the book uses various sock patterns as a way of showing how hand dyed fibers can look on a finished garment. Again, the book explains the step by step process to make the perfect sock – actually the book has the best explanation of knitting the heel of a sock that I’ve ever read.
Well, I read the book cover to cover, so it only remained for me to knit a sock using a hand dyed yarn. Naturally I chose Twisted Sisters yarn. I could have chosen another brand of hand dyed yarn – I’ve since discovered others like Rio De La Plata Yarn and Artyarns Yarn, but I kind of felt it fitting to use Twisted Sisters yarn for my first venture into using hand dyed yarn.
The yarn I chose was Daktari yarn. It’s a cotton fiber, which makes it perfect for socks. Daktari fiber is a hand painted yarn of nearly solid hues (monochromatic variegates). Each color just seems to flow into its neighboring color. I simply fell in love with this yarn. Anyhow, I used 2 balls of 50g to make the socks using US size 8 needles.
I’d made socks before but I didn’t know the huge variety on types. In the end I went for a pattern with “afterthought heels”. I was pretty delighted with the way the socks turned out; they even fitted perfectly thanks to the advice I found in the book. They looked great and the Twisted Sisters yarn I chose was perfect – even if I say so myself.
I’ve since used other hand dyed yarns from companies like Rio De La Plata Yarn and Artyarns Yarn but I’ll never forget my first project using hand dyed fiber. I still have my socks and look forward to working with a Twisted Sister yarn again.
Follow the links for more information about Twisted Sisters Yarn and other hand dyed yarn like Artyarns Yarn.
Author: Robin Cassidy
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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The Top 7 Knitting Yarn Questions Answered
One of the most important decisions you must make when you knit is what yarn to use for your project. The yarn you choose has everything to do with how your finished project looks and stands up to time and wear. The last thing you want to do is spend hours making something only to have it fall apart in the wash, or look worn out after the second wearing. Taking the time to choose just the right yarn will help make your knitting projects a success.
Here are the answers to your top seven knitting yarn questions:
1. How do I learn about all of the different yarns? The easiest place to learn about yarn is by simply reading and comparing labels. Yarn labels include such information as the brand name, the fiber content of the yarn, the color name and number, the dye lot number, the number of piles or strands, the weight classification of the yarn, the knitting and crochet gauge, cleaning instructions, and the length of the yarn itself. By reading the labels and comparing them to each other, you can easily learn all you need to know about yarn.
2. Why do I care about yarn weight classification? The term “yarn weight classification” does not refer to the actual physical weight of the yarn, as you might have guessed it would. Rather, the yarn weight classification refers to the diameter of the yarn strand. The smaller the strand, the smaller the weight, and vice versa…
3. Can I use a different yarn brand than my pattern calls for? Generally the answer is yes. You will want to knit a test swatch and make sure your gauge is correct before knitting your entire project though.
4. What is yarn gauge? Gauge is the number of stitches and rows in every inch of knitting. Gauge is specified on patterns to assure that the end project is true to size. Because everyone knits differently, it is very important to make a test swatch with your project needles and yarn to check to make sure your gauge matches that of the pattern you are working with. Gauge is especially important when working with clothing.
5. Can I substitute one yarn weight for another one? Generally the answer is no. Because your yarn weight has a lot to do with the finished size and look of a project, by using a yarn of a different weight you risk your project coming out the wrong size. Generally you cannot substitute yarn weights unless you are making something like a blanket or scarf where it will not matter as much and you can easily adjust your project for the change in size.
6. What is a dye lot and why do some yarns have one and others do not? Dye lot numbers refer to the batch a skein of yarn was in when it was dyed at the factory. Because dying is not an exact science, the same color yarn, from different dye lots, can appear to be two different colors. This is why you should always purchase enough yarn to complete your project all from the same dye lot if at all possible. Some yarns and fibers do not list a dye lot number because the fibers are colored first and then the yarns are made. This means there are no dye lots available for the yarn.
7. How do I care for my knitted fabrics? The easiest way to know how to care for a knitted fabric is to check on the laundering instructions on the yarn label. Generally you will want to hand wash all of your hand knitted items in a mild detergent and then dry them flat. If you do not have a yarn label, you can sometimes find similar yarn at your local craft store and read that yarn’s label for care directions.
Buy Yarn Online
Nowadays, there are numerous online stores and popular shopping websites, which offer a wide variety of yarn, of all colors, types as well as from all companies. There are the largely popular shopping sites which offer various products and there are specific yarn websites which sell only yarn and other related items. These sites offer various options to their customers. One can choose which brand of yarn they want to purchase, the color of yarn, the size, as well as the quantity.
There are many advantages of buying yarn online. One can access yarn from many different companies and can obtain even rare kinds of yarn, in the comfort of their own homes, without any difficulties. The hassle of traveling long distances for a particular kind of yarn is spared. They can also compare the prices of yarn from different websites and buy yarn from the site or online store which they feel is offering them the best deal. Many websites also offer links to other sites and online stores which sell other kinds of yarn and other related items. The price of yarn bought online is not drastically higher than yarn bought from actual shops. The marginally higher price is due to the transport and shipping costs. Another advantage is that the yarn is delivered to the customer within 72 hours of making the purchase. This time frame may differ depending on the area where the customer stays.
However, buying yarn online is not without its disadvantages. Like all other online purchases, the experience of feeling the product, seeing it and touching it is lost in this online transaction. For many people who have traditional mindsets, this is a major deterrent. Also the customers need to exercise extreme caution before making any payments online. Before buying yarn from the internet, one should always verify the credibility of the particular e-store.
There are many options which are available to those who use yarn frequently or even occasionally, as to the variety of yarn available and the places from which they can purchase yarn as well as other related items.
Yarn provides detailed information on Yarn, Knitting Yarn, Discount Yarn, Yarn Shops and more. Yarn is affiliated with Wholesale Soy Candles.
Author: Steve Valentino
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Knitting Yarn Remnants and Utilization
If you have ever wondered why so many knitter’s closets get filled with those collection of yarn, this article should explain a lot. If you are one of those knitters who has a closet full of remnant yarn, this article could help you to get rid of that “problem” while still offering you loads of knitting fun and personally rewarding knitted works of art. Whether you are new to the world of knitting or not, sooner or later everyone is going to find themselves with some remnant yarn lying around their home somewhere. The secret is to get rid of it without messing up an item made with different yarn.
If you are new to the world of knitting, you may or may not know that not all yarn is created equal. Apart from the different types of yarn, the different brands of yarn and other factors, there is also the very subtle difference in how the knitting yarn is dyed. While there are numerous quality control checks in place, there will always be at least subtle differences in yarns even when purchasing the same colors from the same companies. Most knitting yarn is dyed and whether that is done in a machine or by hand, there are always going to be some differences.
The more porous the yarn is, the more dye it will absorb and the darker the color will be. Even the finest knitting yarns will have some variation in the spinning process that will be enough to insure minor variation even in the same batch. When that same knitting yarn has been sitting around for a while, the colors may fade from such innocuous sources as sunlight or even bright light bulbs, washing, being played with by the kitten or any host of other things that can (and often do) occur with those knitting yarn remnants over the course of time.
When you are starting a new knitting project, it is always best to purchase enough of the yarn that you will need to complete the entire project. Unfortunately, this also generally means that you will end up with a small ball of yarn leftover. So what can you do with these knitting yarn remnants instead of just letting them gather dust in the closet? The answer is… a lot. If you do have some knitting yarn lying around that is similar but not quite the same, you can still often use it for cuffs, collars and other areas where a slight variation in color may actually highlight your knitted works and make them even more beautiful.
Remnants of knitting yarn can often be used for smaller projects. While these projects may not make up the bulk of your work… especially if you are knitting for profit, they can still provide you with a lot of beautiful knitting to work with and trim out or create highlights for your other knitted products. Headbands, ribbing for cuffs and collars, maybe even a pair of socks or footies if you have enough of the knitting yarn left over. Again, even if this is not your main love with knitting, it is still better than leaving all that money laying around in the closet going to waste.
The fact is, that the things you can make with knitting yarn remnants may be smaller, but they can still be just as beautiful and often just as valuable when it comes time to start knitting to earn a little money. They are also generally easier and take less time than many of the larger knitted products. While it is doubtful that anybody who is involved with knitting for fun or money will ever clear their closet of all that remnant knitting yarn, there really are some great uses for it if you use your imagination.
Liz Raad is a small business coach and author of the exciting new E-book “Knitting For Profit – Your Step-by-Step Guide To Making Money From Knitting and Crochet”. Liz also runs a popular blog on the topic of making money from knitting and crochet. Visit her blog at http://www.knittingforprofit.com/blog where you will find tonnes of free information, practical advice and ideas about how to successfully knit or crochet for profit.
On her blog you will discover:-How to get started in your own knitting business -How to easily sell your knitting and crochet online -Copyright free knitting patterns that you are free to knit for your own profit -Real success stories and interviews with women who make cash from their favourite hobby -How much to charge for a knitting job -Advice and reviews on various knitting yarn
Author: Liz Raad
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Knitting Cast Offs
Casting off is a method by which you can create an edge which will not ravel. In knitting cast offs has great importance, it is because of this technique that, our sweaters and other knitted objects do not destroyed. This is basically the final stitch that gives your project strength.
The basic technique of knitting casting off involves, passing the final loop of a wale, over the loop of an adjoining stitch. You can create variations in this technique to create simple casting off, knit casting off, purl casting off; sewn cast offs and so on. These different types of casting offs can be used to provide strength, durability and comfort along with quality to your project.
In simple knitting cast offs, a loop is passed over the adjoining stitch; here the yarn is passed through the final loop, to fasten everything in place. This method produces a tight edge with a little elasticity. Unlike other casting offs, the bounds do not undo due to tension. Hence this technique is used in shoulder seams. Another convenient thing of this bounding is that it does not need a knitting yarn nearby and can be done in any direction.
Another version of the simple knitting cast offs in the knit cast off. Here every loop is knitted before passing over the other loop. You have to start with knitting two normal stitches and then pulling the first stitch on the right needle over the second the stitch.
Knit the next needle on the left needles and continue till the end with this cycle. You can make your casting offs loose or tight by applying the appropriate tension. To create loose cast offs use a needle that is two sizes bigger than the required project needle.
Knitting cast offs like purl wise, sewn casting offs and so on can be used to create variations and elasticity. The purl wise casting off can be used create rib patterns. While the sewn casting off involves the use of a tapestry needle attached with a long tail of yarn. The most popular form of this cast off is from Elizabeth Zimmermann’s book “Knitting without Tears”.
This bound produces an extremely elastic edge, which is perfect for the top of a sock. The technique is simple, use the long yarn and the needle to pull through the two front loops, and then pull it back through the first stitch. After dropping the first stitch repeat this method till the end.
If you are looking for a strong, stitch to join your front and back of your sweater, then try using the three needles casting off. This method of knitting cast offs creates a strong seam. Hence this bounding provides strength and durability to your sweaters. In this method two needles are held parallel, with the right sides of the knitting facing each other.
The knitting cast offs used for socks and neckline edges is the tubular bind off. This bound produces a stretchy edge. Hence it is very useful, when you create surprise gifts for your loved ones.
For creating good knitting cast offs, you can use crochet hooks, this makes creating bound offs easy for beginners. A crochet hook acts like a right hand needles, this hook is useful in creating loose, elastic bounds. The bounds created using a crochet hook retain their elasticity for a longer time.
Knitting – Knit A Lengthwise Scarf Using Leftover Scrap Yarn
Want to create your own work of art? Have tons of scrap yarn sitting around & you don’t know what to do with it?Enter the Sideways Scarf!
Although we can’t claim to be pioneers of this technique, we are huge fans & are constantly coming up with new combinations. A great way to bring out the inner-creative in you, the sideways scarf will exploit the color and texture of the yarns in your collection.
Selecting the Yarns : I choose at least 3 or 4 different yarns, beginning with an inspiration yarn. The inspiration yarn typically has the most character, often variegated in color with a touch of sparkle and maybe with a little fluff, mohair or nubs. From this inspiration yarn, I carefully study the colors and then choose other yarns in coordinating colors & usually include one more yarn with a texture.
Putting it all Together : For each edge of the scarf I always use a plain solid color and a fairly chunky weight yarn. This frames the scarf very well and also gives it stability in a way that a textured yarn would not necessarily have. Then I just work 2, 3, or 4 row stripes, however the mood takes me. There are no rules, no right or wrong way of doing it just a lot of creativity and fun!
When choosing the yarns, look at the yardage as you may need 2 of one of the yarns if you are intending to use it for more than just 3 or 4 rows. Yarns with lots going on are often heavier so you don’t get as many yards as in a plain yarn. A finer yarn is great too as you can always use 2 strands of it. Use plain yarns with different finishes like a wool and a silk for example.
Start Knitting! : I typically use a 36″ long circular needle size 10 or 10.5 and cast on about 220 stitchesusing bulky weight yarns. In general, this makes a reasonable length scarf that you can wrap around once if desired. Of course, if you are using much thicker yarns, you’ll want to use a larger needle and cast on fewer stitches.
In general, I use math (oh no!) to figure out how many stitches to cast on. For example, let’s say that I am using a US 15 Needle for yarn that states that it will get 2 sts/inch on a US 15 needle. If I want the scarf to be 60″ long, then i cast on 60 x 2 = 120 sts.Following that logic, if I want the scarf to be 65″ long, then i cast on 65 x 2 = 130 sts. In this scenario (130 sts), the value “65″ equals “the number of inches of desired length”. The value “2″ equals “the number of sts/inch” I am expecting to get when knitting. So…. if you want to knit a scarf that is 65″ in length and you think you’ll get 3 sts/inch (because that’s what the label says, given then needle size you’re using), then I can calculate: 65 x 3 = 195 sts to cast on. Make sense?
Ending : Now once you’ve figured out how many to cast on, and you’ve knit until your arms are sore (or you’ve simply run out of yarn),it’s time to cast off. But how will I know how much yarn to leave for the cast off row?That’s a very good question! Don’t get me wrong, this may not work every single time (do don’t get mad at me if it doesn’t), but I use a ‘rule of 4′ when determining whether or not I have enough yarn left over. If I can stretch my leftover yarn across the width of my knitting 4 times, then i have enough left to cast off. Again, let’s use some of that high school math that we swore we’d never need… If your scarf is going to be 60″ wide, then you’ll need approximately 60″x4=240″ of additional yarn to cast off. Once you’re down to the last 120″ of yarn, then it’s time to end this project and start thinking of another one.One of the most important thing about a sideways scarf and that is that you must cast off on a needle 1-2 sizes bigger. The reason that this is important is to prevent the scarf ‘cinching’ up on one side. Since you are only casting off 1 stitch at a time, the length of this larger needle doesn’t really matter. In fact, it’s probably easier to maneuver with a shorter straight needle (or a double pointed needle).
So hunt in your stash for an inspiration piece or look at our website for some really exciting options we have put together…I wanted to knit all of them! This is a great weekend project or one for a car journey so have fun!
We hope you enjoy this article! This article and the associated photos are only for personal non-commercial use and are not for resale. All rights reserved. Permission granted by Jimmy Beans Wool to copy and share this article for non-commercial personal use. Users do not have permission to display on any retail or wholesale website without express permission from Jimmy Beans Wool.
Founded in 2002 by Laura Zander, aka “Jimmy,” Jimmy Beans Wool is both a bricks and mortar and Internet knitting superstore, offering knitters worldwide a comprehensive selection of the finest yarns and knitting supplies along with the latest fashion trends. With customers from Los Angeles to Uzbekistan and all points in between, Jimmy Beans Wool has successfully created an international knitting community comparable to that of the local yarn store, and is the resource for knitters looking for inspiration, instructions and project help. Headquartered in Reno, NV, the store was recently the subject of a small business profile in Fortune Small Business (July/August 2007) and has been cited in magazines from Vogue Australia to Family Circle.
For details, visit http://www.JimmyBeansWool.com/
Jimmy Beans Wool offers a wide variety of discount and sale yarn as well as a huge variety of Blue Sky Alpacas, Lorna’s Laces and Rowan Yarn.
Author: Laura Zander
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Hand Dyed Yarn – Using Grape Juice To Make Your Own Dye
Creating your own hand dyed yarn isn’t difficult and can be fun. With a little practice, you’ll making yarn that is beautiful and unique. Here’s a recipe using grape juice. With wool get a dusty-rose color, on cotton you’ll get soft lavender.
The following yarn dye is made from frozen juice which you can buy at your local supermarket. You’ll also need some salt.
First off you should select your yarn that is to be hand dyed. Different fibers take dye differently. All-wool yarn, like Lion Wool, takes on color much more easily than other fibers. Cotton takes on very subtle, pastel shades when hand dyed. In fact, you’ll find that using the same dye on a wool fiber and a cotton fiber can produce fibers of differing colors.
All the equipment you need to dye yarn is in the kitchen. Until quite recently hand dyeing yarn was a quite common activity in most kitchens. The following items are what you’ll need.
1. One good knife and chopping board.
2. Stainless steel or enamel pots. Don’t use those coated with anti-stick materials.
3. A stove – of course.
4. A timer – not an egg timer but something that lasts a period of time; a clock will suffice.
5. You need tongs or spoons to handle the yarn. If you doing more than one color at a time you should use different utensils.
6. You need a clothes horse or somewhere else to allow your yarn to dry.
7. Takes notes. If you make a color you like you’ll want to repeat it; detailed notes about quantities and timing will help you to repeat the process.
Making the grape juice dye
This quantity is enough to make 2 skeins of wool or cotton: 2 large cans of frozen grape juice; you can use fresh grape; 4 tbsp salt; 4 cans water.
Bring the above to the boil, stirring occasionally.
Bundle the yarn for dying into a hank. It should be looped loosely so that the dye will be able to circulate freely but also needs to be secured so it does not tangle; you don’t want to be spending a lot of time untangling it when it’s wet. Bundling is particularly important for wool yarn, which will felt together if allowed to move during dying. Here is how to make the bundles:
Wind the yarn into a large loop. You can do this on a swift; by wrapping it around the back of a chair; by wrapping it around your forearm from your fingers; under your elbow and back up again.
Secure the wound yarn by tying it loosely in two places using short sections.
If your pot is small, double the loop, twisting it into a smaller circle and securing it with two more short pieces of yarn.
You help to spread the dye evenly but first dampening the yarn.
Carefully put the yarn in to the dye bath.
Cook the yarn for 1 hour. If the liquid evaporates below the height of the yarn you can add more water.
Test the color by taking a small section and rinsing it. If you like the color you can remove the yarn or else leave it longer to take on more color.
After one hour, remove the yarn from the bath and rinse it in cool water. Rinse the yarn until the water runs clear. Do NOT throw away the dye bath until the yarn has dried completely and you know you are satisfied with the color. Find out whether your yarn is color-fast by rinsing with soap as well as water. It’s better to find out now before you’ve made the yarn into something.
Wring out the yarn.
Cut the second set of ties on the yarn, but leave the first ones in so that the yarn is in a big loop.
When dying wool, put it back on the swift or chair or whatever you used when you first wound it. Rewind the yarn into a ball and then rewind it back into its loop. This will help to unfelt some of the strands that may have felted together slightly. It’s much easier to unfelt yarn when it’s damp.
Hang up the yarn to dry naturally.
Follow the links for more information about hand dyed yarn like Artyarns Yarn as well as other beautiful yarns like Filaro Yarn.
Author: Robin Cassidy
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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After Using Sirdar Yarn A Yarn Snob No More
I didn’t really notice it at first; it just sort of crept up on me. But, I’d turned into a yarn snob. I found myself only using hand dyed yarn for all my projects and refusing to knit with anything ‘down market’. Sirdar yarn showed me the error of my ways.
I’ve knitted ever since I can remember. When I was a child, my mother would give me odds and ends from her knitting projects, and I’d make do with these yarn remnants; just so long as I had yarn. I think back now to my early knitting days; the sweaters, scarves and mittens knitted together with a mixture of yarn types in a multitude of colors. It never bothered me that I had to use whatever I could get my hands on but as I grew up I could afford to buy my own balls and shanks of yarn, and I would finally knit something that someone else, apart from me, would wear.
A few years back I discovered hand spun and hand dyed yarns. It was love at first sight. Using these beautiful yarns brought so much enjoyment. I would scour every local yarn store and yarn festival looking for rare and unusual yarns. Without really realizing it, I was only using these exotic hand dyed yarns. I would dismiss yarns that I had used years before as being well, rather boring and ‘commercial’. In all honesty I’d turned into a yarn snob.
The wake up call when I was asked to crochet slippers for a friend of a friend’s wedding. The bride’s dress was pure white, and none of the natural fibers I found were ‘white enough’. With the sound of wedding bells rapidly approaching I sought, in desperation, a yarn to match. I scurried down to my local yarn store and it was there that it was suggested to me that I try a Sirdar yarn called ‘Snuggly Bubbly’. I didn’t really know very much about Sirdar yarn, but I learned that the company is English and has been producing yarn for eons.
The color of the yarn matched the wedding dress perfectly. The name of the Sirdar yarn was very apt; it’s incredibly soft, easy to handle, and is perfect for making baby hats, blankets, mittens, and booties. It’s also a very hypo allergenic yarn that is washable.
Just, so you know, the Sirdar Snuggly Bubbly yarn is 100% nylon and has a DK weight, though you can treat it as a sport weight for crochet work. It comes in a 50 gram ball with a length of 140 yards.
This Sirdar yarn was great fun. There’s enough texture to the yarn that it is not as slippery as it could be. It’s also slubbed, but unlike handspun slubs, these nubs/bumps are evenly spaced. It was easy to work with – I found it to be a very ‘bouncy’ yarn, so it was easy on my hands and wrists – and I finished the bridal slippers in no time.
I’ll definitely be using Sirdar yarn again sometime in the future and I’ll be using other yarns that aren’t hand spun and hand dyed. Me, a yarn snob? Never.
Follow the links for more information about Sirdar Yarn as well as hand dyed yarn like Margaret Stove Yarn.
Author: Robin Cassidy
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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